Madras Checks

MADRAS CHECKS

The story of how it became a global fashion centuries ago.

THE BEGINNING

THE COLONISERS

By the 13th century, the fabric was exported to the Middle East & Africa. But it was only in the 16th century, with the arrival of the European colonisers that this fabric was mass produced and exported all over the world. Having discovered exceptional quality Chintz, Long Cloth, Morries (Blue cotton cloth) & the colourful MADRAS CHECKS, the British East India Company, established a trading post in a small fishing village caked ‘MADRASPATINAM’.

THE SUPPLY CHAIN

As the Cotton for the fabric was locally available, the price of the fabric was cheap. To Secure a reliable labour supply, the English East India Company promised a 30-year exemption from duties for Indian weavers in the area. Thus, within a year, nearly 400 families of weavers had settled in Madras and it established a seamless supply chain for the fabric.

MADRAS CHECKS IN AFRICA

The vibrant colours& unique designs made it very popular in North & West Africa.
It was known as ‘INJIRI’ (real India). This REAL MADRAS HANDKERCHIEF became a symbol of Kalabari(Nigerian) identity. The brides of West Africa, the Gold Coast & Ghana loved to have their gowns tailored from Madras Checks in the early 18th& 19th centuries. The fabric was auctioned to traders who swapped it for slaves in Africa. And so, for many enslaved Africans, it became a symbol of suppression.
Source; https://thefederal.com/states/south/tamil-nadu/how-madras-lost-its-textile-legacy-in-checks/

THE MADRAS SHIRT

In 1897 SEARS published a catalogue with a variety of Madras shirts for their buyers. It became a status symbol & a style statement with affluent Americans making it a shirt of their choice for their vacation to the Bahamas. It was in the 1960s that this fabric rose to its highest glory in the fashion world. ‘Madras’: a new status symbol.

Source: https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Prep-examples-of-Madras.webp

BROOKS BROTHERS: THE BLEEDING MADRAS FABRIC

In 1958, William Jacobson, a leading textile exporter was fascinated by this gorgeous plaid fabric& bought 10,000 yards at $1/yard from Capt. C.P.Krishnan of Leela Lace, madras who tried to warm him that the naturally dyed fabric should be washed with care to avoid bleeding. The fabric was sold to BROOKS BROTHERS sans the wash care instructions. They launched THE MADRAS COLLECTION pan America & were soon flooded with complaints of bleeding fabric. David Ogilvy, the advertising legend, was roped in to create a new marketing strategy. He coined the phrase “GAURENTEED TO BLEED”.
And so, it was established that authentic Madras Fabric had to bleed! This was the start of a new global & fashion trend!

About Author

Vijayalakshmi Nachiar is Co-Founder Ethicus.